Thursday, January 29, 2009

Viva Mexico!

Senior CMS Guide, Steve Johnson, has been living the jet setting life style. Over the past three months, Steve has lead three separate Mexico expeditions.

The first was to the limestone cliffs of Potrero Chico. Great clients, temperatures, and climbs made this trip amazing. The cherry on top was that every pitch was sport climbing. No need to bring the big heavy rack. All you need are the draws and a smile.

The second trip was to the peaks of La Malinche and Orizaba (18,850’). This trip differed from our normal Mexico’s 2 Giants expedition. It was a shorter trip and they climbed La Malinche (14,640’) as an acclimatization hike instead of the normal Iztaccihuatl (17,343’). Steve was accompanied by another CMS Guide, Roy Leggett, and four clients. Although not all the clients made it to the summit of Orizaba it sounded like the trip was a blast. The clients and guides came back with some amazing stories. Although I don’t think that I heard them all. One of the clients told me what happens in Mexico stays in Mexico.

Steve just recently returned from his third trip to Mexico. This time it was for our normal Mexico 2 Giants expedition. He was accompanied with another CMS Guide, Russell Hunter. This trip had five clients. The trip started off with the team heading to Teotihuacan, a large archeological site containing different pyramid structures. After that the team went to climb Izta then traveled to Orizaba. Everyone on this trip summited Orizaba.

As the expedition manager, I can’t be happier the way these trips went. I’ve heard nothing but good things from the clients. Our guides, Steve, Russell, and Roy have done an amazing job.

Steve is now on his way to Ecuador to climb Cayambe (18,997’) and Cotopaxi (19,347’) with three clients. Look for that trip report in the near future. Steve did mention to me that if anyone would like to contact him about these trips, feel free to call him at 720-635-6068.

If you have any questions about any of our expeditions feel free to contact me. I’d love to help you out in any way. I hope to hear from you soon.

Take care,

E.J. Nogaski
Expedition Manager
Colorado Mountain School
800-836-4008 x201
expeditions@totalclimbing.com

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

SCS Adult National Championships

Boulder Rock Club members and staff dominated at the 2009 SCS Adult National Championships near Salt Lake City this weekend. The women's division saw BRC members Emily Harrington and Paige Claassen taking 1st and 2nd place respectively. That's back-to-back championships for Emily!

BCR route setter Jonathan Siegrist (J-Star) boldly walked into the SCS Adult National Championships with no prior competition experience, roped up, and walked out with 5th place! His showing may have surprised some competition circuit regulars, but the BRC crew knew that he was, and will continue to be, a force to be reckoned with. Jonathan was kind enough to share his thoughts with us on his experience:

"This was my first competition, and I would not have entered had it not been for my friends Emily Harrington, Paige Claassen and the (Steve and Matty) Hong's convincing. I saw it as not only an opportunity to try a totally new form of mental challenge but also as inspiration to train hard through what is otherwise often an uninspiring time of the year. I knew that the field would be filled with experienced and burly climbers, so I did my best to prepare physically, all the while knowing that I would inevitably be unprepared mentally. I performed above my expectations on the 2 qualifying routes and went into finals tied for 1st. About half way up the finals route I came face to face with one of my greatest weaknesses; a massive dyno. Unfortunately my onsight attempt ended with a flailing jump, which although close, proved fruitless. In the mens division, this kind of huge movement is common in comps and admittedly, I was unprepared. In the end I winded up with a 5th place overall from 23 of America's top climbers, so I left content with my first competition performance. Are comps my thing? Not in the same way that climbing outside and enjoying the mountains are, but you can expect to see me at the BCS year finale at the Boulder Rock Club, and perhaps at next years SCS Nationals as well. In that case, you can also expect to see me training for dynos!" -Jstar

Visit Jonathan's blog to hear the rest of the story...jstarinorbit.com


Women’s Lead
1 - Emily Harrington
2 - Paige Claassen
3 - Sasha DiGiulian
4 - Sydney McNair
5 - Alex Puccio

Men’s Lead
1 - Carlo Traversi
2 - Dave Graham
3 - Ethan Pringle
4 - Julian Bautista
5 - Jonathan Siegrist

Women’s Speed
1 - Amanda Sutton
2 - Mykael Ann McGinley
3 - Tiffany Hensley

Men’s Speed
1 - Ryan Roden
2 - Nic Sutton
3 - Michael Perry

Congratulations to you all, keep pullin' down!

See photos from the comp at Climbing.com

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Rocky Mountain National Park Conditions

January 27, 2009

Hi all,

With a reported 18” of new snow at Bear Lake from this last storm cycle, the Park is sitting pretty for skiing. The snow came in steadily, with anywhere from 4-to-8” a day over this past weekend, starting Thursday night and wrapping up mid-morning yesterday (Monday, 26th). The snow came in very warm and, in fact, it was raining in Estes on Saturday afternoon. This “warm” snow, heavy with a high water content, seems to be bonding with many of the old snow surfaces quite well in some spots. However, in other spots the evidence would indicate otherwise. Throughout this storm cycle, besides Friday, the winds have been mostly absent…but they are back today with a vengeance.

Due to the positive bonding abilities of the new snow, the Colorado Avalanche Information Center (CAIC) has forecasted the avalanche danger for the Front Range today as MODERATE. Perhaps in other areas in the Front Range zone this is the case but things seem to be a little sketchier in the Park right now. The danger rating rose quickly from near-LOW to CONSIDERABLE with this storm cycle and this morning fell back to MODERATE. On Saturday, on an AIARE Level 1 avalanche course, students and I skied the lower Dragontails in pretty poor visibility. we saw a party of four skiers descending the main Dragontail Coulior from the top! Again on Sunday we skied the Otis couliors and Terrain Park which are N-NE-E in aspect and are in the mid-30-degree range. On both days we saw few signs of instability despite numerous test slopes and snow profiles. Indeed, things seemed to bonding well where we had been skiing and a MODERATE rating seemed accurate.

However, sometime on Sunday the “Dead Elk” or left Dragontail Coulior slabbed off where the slope begins to bottleneck around 10,700’ or so. I didn’t realize this until Monday morning as I skinned across Emerald Lake but the crown line was definitely still visible as was the debris. The winds were working their hardest to erase the evidence, however, and by now the slope would look as if nothing had ever happened. The skiing was great, by the way.

Again today we were skiing in the Park but due to the high winds and frigid temps, opted to keep it at treeline and below. The strong winds have already made the treeline skiing enjoyable this season and, yup, they’re back and blowing furiously. The snow is being rapidly transported from all windward slopes onto lee slopes, generally easterly aspects. Seriously, wind slabs are forming very quickly and soon will be plenty thick enough to be a real concern. I spoke to a friend who had just snowshoed down from Lake Haiyaha 10-15 minutes before we met. As we neared the top of the trail, fresh, sensitive slabs had formed over his tracks and it looked like he passed sometime yesterday rather than 30 minutes prior. As we nudged into the Terrain Park, we triggered numerous slabs, some 40’ wide and 8” deep. Being relatively small and the being mindful of our terrain choices, we weren’t terribly concerned about these slabs. We definitely avoided some slopes, however, and I would highly caution backcountry travelers to be wary of treeline and above treeline terrain over the next week. Especially be cautious of slopes that are very steep and wind-loaded. Another storm cycle is forecasted to enter our area on Wednesday, bringing more snow and more winds. Woohoo, winter is here!

I have only a couple updates on ice conditions. One party reported on the “West Gully” up at the Black Lake area, while heading up to McHenry’s to attempt that peak. With this strong wind event blowing so much snow in the Park right now, the upper ice slabs at Black Lake are probably pretty avalanche prone now. Another guide was up at the Jewel Lake ice this past week and reported that there was less ice than usual but that it’s “in.” On our ski tour towards Otis the other day, I saw the Loch Vale ice area from across the valley. Can ice shrink? Just kidding…but I couldn’t see any improvement on conditions there anyhow. Perhaps with the new snow to feed them, our south-facing ice may form up. I’ll be sure to keep you posted.

If you have any condition-related observations you’d like to share with me, send an e-mail to acouncell@totalclimbing.com. Thanks!

Andrew Councell is a CMS Guide and year-round (brrr, again) Estes Park resident

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Meet The Staff: Sarah McNichols


Name: Sarah McNichols
Job Title: Assistant Instructor, Front Desker
Hometown: Lafayette, CO
With CMS/BRC since: I joined the junior team in 1998, and started working in 2003.
How long have you been climbing? 12 years
First outdoor climb: Hair City, Eldo
Favorite climbing area: Shelf Road
Favorite route: 80 Feet of Meat, Rifle
Gri-gri, ATC Guide or Crash Pad? Gri-gri all the way
What do you like most about your job? I love the people that I am able to work with, and especially the kids.
What do you like most about the Boulder Rock Club? It is really big and really awesome. Growing up here has been the best thing, with all of the great people. There is a community here that can't be found anywhere else.
Skis or Board? Skiing all the way!

What do you like to do when you are not working? The majority of my time is spent at CU studying Political Science and Economics. I am also on the CU Womens Ultimate Frisbee team which occupies my week days and weekends with practice and tournaments. I am also a huge fan of golf and tennis.