Boulder Canyon's Castle Rock Clean Up

The article below was taken from the Boulder Daily Camera

Written by Chris Weidner

Photos by Joe Sambataro

The surreal scene at Boulder Canyon's Castle Rock on Friday was like the setup for a punch line.

Thirty-odd climbers and half a dozen Boulder County workers -- including cops in uniform -- worked side-by-side to stabilize erosion, erase graffiti and clean up trash. Historically, climbers and the county have butted heads on land-use issues, so their overt cooperation was almost comical.

"The land managers aren't our enemies," laughed Roger Briggs, longtime Boulder climbing pioneer and founder of the Boulder Climbing Community. "We all have similar goals."

One goal of the BCC is to facilitate civil discussions and consensus building on how to best care for Eldorado Canyon, the Flatirons and Boulder Canyon.

Just over a year ago, Briggs met with 15 influential Boulder climbers to discuss his idea for the BCC. Initially, Briggs wanted "some kind of communication structure" among local climbers. It began with an e-mail list, but since April 2010, the BCC has become an umbrella organization that supports and enhances existing groups such as the Flatirons Climbing Council and the Action Committee for Eldorado.

"And where there are holes, like in Boulder Canyon, we take over," Briggs said.

Right now, the BCC is taking on an important -- if not enormous -- task that will benefit Boulder Canyon, its climbers and all its user groups for years to come. The BCC is trying to coordinate Boulder Canyon's land managers, recreation groups and private property owners in an effort to preserve and care for the environment.

The problem is that Boulder Canyon is a perplexing patchwork of landowners, land managers and recreation groups, several of which have competing interests. Here's what I mean: Boulder Canyon is owned and managed jointly by the U.S. Forest Service, Boulder County, the city of Boulder, the Colorado Department of Transportation and private individuals. Most of the climbing is on Forest Service land, but some crags, such as the Bowling Alley, are owned by three different agencies.

"My dream is to have cooperation between these agencies and to make Boulder Canyon a better place for everyone, not just climbers," Briggs said.

With tremendous support from the Access Fund, a Boulder-based organization that preserves access to U.S. climbing areas, the BCC is in the process of becoming a nonprofit organization.

"But right now," Briggs said, "we're just running on good energy and people's spirits."

So far, it's working.

The BCC was recently awarded a grant from the Colorado Mountain Club to help put together specific proposals for trail design in Boulder Canyon. The crux is the Forest Service, which must deal with lengthy studies and permit processes before any official trail work or maintenance is begun.

"The Forest Service is interested in the idea of cooperation and stewardship, but they are constrained by their own administrative challenges," said Joe Sambataro, access director at the Access Fund. "We are hopeful that the Forest Service will make this a high priority for us to move forward."

Working with Boulder County at the Castle Rock Cleanup was an important first step for the BCC. Both Briggs and Sambataro hope that the cleanup will not only set a precedent for future stewardship events but will serve as an example to the Forest Service of the kind of relationship that can exist between climbers and land managers.
"It blows my mind how great the county is to work with," Briggs said.

Thanks to Briggs and the BCC, events like Friday's Castle Rock Cleanup will continue to encourage competing interest groups to work together to improve Boulder Canyon.

Everyone can be involved in the BCC and the future of Boulder Canyon.

"It's all about inclusiveness and working together," Briggs said. "I want the public to know that climbers are good stewards."

RMNP Conditions Report - May 11, 2011

Nearing Fairchil's summit, Estes Valley far below (5/2)
Mountains symbolize the indomitable will, an unbending resolution, a loyalty that is eternal, and character that is impeachable…When man pits himself against the mountain, he taps inner springs of his strength. He comes to know himself. For he realizes how small a part of the universe he actually is, how great are the forces that oppose him.—William O. Douglas

 Approaching "Brain Freeze" on Otis' S. Face (5/5)

After a long stint away in Alaska, I’ve needed a week or so to reacquaint myself with the Park’s conditions. A lot has changed since I was romping around in Colorado’s high peaks in early April and I’ve wanted to take my time to really get a feel for what’s going on now. Personally, I’m annoyed when people spray ignorant beta on the web and I’d be a hypocrite to do the same. So, here’s what I’ve seen up here lately:

 Front Range cragging, often perfect in May

I know it’s been all warm and green low along the Front Range but, in the alpine, winter still reigns supreme. For some ridiculously odd reason, Estes locals are always surprised and whiny when it snows in May…just like it does every year. Well, it’s snowing now and has been off and on all day. The pattern seems to have been substantial spring (ie, heavy and wet) snowfall followed by clear, warm weather. As always, the winds have been blowing and plumes of dry, air-borne snow can still be visible along the Continental Divide even on the warmest days. Currently in the high country, the winds have overall been light and out of the East (opposite of usual), just enough to transport snow into thick drifts. The snow was heavy at times today, ~1”/hr, with visibility less than 500’ due to snow and low clouds. The current forecast called for nearly a foot of snow today and another 6” or so tonight. I’ve heard reports of over 18” in the 10 Mile Range in Summit County. We’re enjoying a classic May snowstorm!

 Ypsilon as viewed from Fairchild's S. Ridge (5/2)

It’s that time of year when the snowpack has finally stabilized enough to reduce avalanche concerns to the upper layers. This means we can escape the low-angle terrain and tree runs we’ve been glued to all winter and explore the high alpine. On a recent ski descent of Fairchild, we found awesome views of the Mummy Range and Ypsilon with many lines to be skied. We found great turns which made the solid effort worthwhile.

 CMS Guide Norie Kizaki getting deep turns in upper Dragontail (5/11)

Climbing plans were canceled today and out came the skis and boots again. Aside from a couple cars at the Glacier Gorge TH and another car at the Bear Lake TH, we were alone. There was 5” or so of new snow on the ground when we left the car this morning. Snow-laden branches hung low, snow fell softly as we broke trail up Flattop and, best of all…silence. No wind, for once. Our original plans were rendered less-than-ideal after we got above treeline to find near white-out conditions. Calm winds were making for a chilly ascent so we opted to descend something that, at least, we could see: the Dragontail Couloir.

 Cruising into the choke in upper Dragontail Couloir (5/11)

A couple ski cuts at the top flushed out a bit of the new snow but heavy sluffs kept our attention through the first 500’. Apparently tons of people have been skiing the DTC and for good reason: it’s more filled in than usual, almost an easy descent. Old ski tracks made in sloppy mashed potatoes on warm days past were frozen solid underneath the new snow, making for a bit of the “dust on crust” feel. But the middle was 10” of May powder, a dream to find this time of year.

 Somewhere on "Brain Freeze," ice climbing with rock pro

This storm will wrap up sometime Thursday (5/12) but the real avalanche issues will be prevalent Friday. Today we triggered numerous, shallow and manageable slabs/sluffs in the storm snow. But when the warm sun hits the fresh snow on Friday, look out: the mountains will be shedding heavily. Clues of this sort of activity are still visible from the last cycle (5/7), with large chunks of avy debris littering the areas below steep terrain. Last Saturday, around noon, people lunching at Emerald Lake were treated with at least four substantial wet-loose avalanches that occurred naturally, sweeping down towards the Lake. On Sunday, a team I was leading started very early from Bear Lake TH for the S. Face of Flattop. As we began our rappel descent, we witnessed another natural, wet-loose avalanche near the base of Hallet at 9:45, quite early. Don’t get caught in steep, sun-soaked terrain too late in the day!

 A large chunk of avy debris above Emerald Lake; this would do some damage (5/11)

Not only has the skiing been ideal lately, the climbing has been good too. I just mentioned the S. Face of Flattop; we found pretty firm snow and soft ice mixed with solid, dry rock on our climbing loop. CMS guide Norie Kizaki and I climbed “Brain Freeze” on the S. Face of Otis last week and found awesome conditions. Most of the route provided decent snow and great ice climbing, helping the route to feel easier than its grade. Loch Vale still had some ice but I didn’t stop to really check it out. The Freezer Burn wall was still plastered as well and the first pitch of the “Wham Couloir” looked to be fun ice climbing too. So, south-facing routes at low-to-mid elevations are coming in nicely. I suspect that other ice pitches in the Black Lake area are still climbable but, likely, partially/mostly buried with all the snow we got in April. Maybe “Martha’s” on Mt. Lady Washington is good now too? It may be too high still. North-facing routes are reportedly still too dry with lots of wallowing to be had (if you’re into that sort of thing).

 An early-May ascent of the 1st Flatiron, with great weather and views

I saw a party on Hallet Chimney on Sunday but it was hard to see the quality from our perspective. A report from the day before (5/7) noted too-deep conditions just climbers’ left of HC in the north-facing descent couloir. As the ambient temps warm, the south-facing routes will begin to dry up as the north-facing routes come into prime shape. The RMNP alpine climbing season is just beginning!

 Looking towards the Cathedral Spires and Sharkstooth (5/5)

Rock climbing feels awkward after so much time spent in ski boots but, fortunately for me, the weather/temps have helped quite a bit. With splitter weather and hot temps along the lower Front Range, there’s literally something for everybody these days. Skiing in the high peaks, ice/mixed climbing on good south faces and brilliant rock climbing in the canyons…lots to do.

 Yours truly trying out rock climbing again on an early season ascent "Neurosurgeon," near Lyons, CO

But conditions are prone to change quickly during these transitional seasons between summer and winter. I’ll do my best to keep these reports accurate but I’m always looking for readers’ observations as well. If you’ve been out in the Park, please send me an e-mail with your observations. Or if you just have questions, feel free to e-mail me at acouncell@totalclimbing.com. As always, have fun, enjoy the mountains but stay safe out there!

Andrew Councell is a CMS Guide and year-round Estes Park resident

 Warm rock one day, May powder the next...does it get any better?

First Descents Climbing Camps: Moab May 2011

The Colorado Mountain School (CMS) has been very lucky to partner with an amazing organization called First Descents (FD). FD is a wonderful program that offers young adult cancer survivors a breath of fresh air, a break from their normal lives and a chance to live through the spirit of adventure. Each camp offers the opportunity for young adult survivors to share their experiences, battles and on going fight with fellow survivors. In the middle of this gathering FD and CMS offer climbing as another way to challenge the mind and spirit of the group. In April a group of CMS guides made a road trip out to Moab Utah to participate in the first two FD climbing camps of the 2011 season. 

 

Our group toured out to the mighty Titian in the Fisher Towers collecting photos and discussing the ancient history of the land.  We scrambled and hiked down the desert washes enjoying every step of the way.

 

Here CMS guide, Bob Chase, give excellent advice and great coaching to a FD camper. Not every step is smooth but that's part of the adventure. 

 

We slush in desert mud puddles and cross trickling creek beds to find our way through the slot canyon.

 

As we reach the exit with our ecstatic group, we talk about our favorite parts of the day and what the dinner might be when we return back in to civilization.

 

After a great week with an incredible group the CMS guides and FD staff gear up for the second camp. We prepare for the next journey.  The next camp is all return campers with quite a bit of experience.  So we get back out in the desert and start with some more advanced climbing and prep for a multi pitch adventure.

 

We head out to the desert backcountry near the Island in the Sky area.  The FD folks are getting psyched for their experience. Some with more conventional helmets than others. 

 

This is it the climb that everyone has been waiting for. Notice the trending right leaning crack with the steep head wall… that’s going to be us.

 

Strong work Krash, she is working hard at the crux of the route… almost there!

 

Nice work FD campers!!  We all made it to the top after a full day of rock climbing and a long week of prep. There are some deep thoughts while at the summit waiting for the rappels that follow.

The FD climbing program is a great way for me to give back and to share climbing experiences with people that are so in to the present moment. These were first two of ten FD camps of the season.  I can’t wait till the next one. Check back for some more climbing adventures in Estes Park this spring and summer with the Colorado Mountain School and take a minute to see all the great work First Descents is doing by jumping on their website at: www.firstdescents.org

Joey Thompson
AIARE Level 1 Instructor
AMGACertified Rock Guide
AMGA Certified SPI Program Director
jthompson@totalclimbing.com

April Powder!

The calendar may say spring, but we found epic winter riding conditions in RMNP last weekend.  More than a week of storms has hammered the high country with snow totals adding up to multiple feet in favored locations.  Strong winds in the high alpine kept us at moderate elevations, but we were rewarded with some of the best steep tree skiing of the season.  Check out this video of rippin’ telemarker Rob Steinmetz getting the goods and wishing he had brought his snorkel!

 See you in the backcountry.

-Matt Lipscomb

Spring is the best time to climb and ski many of the classic lines in RMNP!  Join us for a day of guided ski mountaineering and learn the skills to safely enjoy these majestic routes.